JIM BOTTOMS' NOTES ON FLORENCE, ITALY (Part 1)
ACCOMMODATIONS. Unless you already have something set up, I'd recommend an inexpensive hotel in the central area, such as the Accademia (Via Faenza 7, 50123 Firenze; tel. 055.293.451; fax 055-219.771. E-mail: info@accademiahotel.net ). It's right near San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapels. The owner Teá and her assistant Antoinetta are absolute sweethearts. The downside is that the hotel has no elevator and a lot of steps.
For long-term arrangements, St. James Church, the Paperback Exchange (see below, under BOOK STORES) and various cyber cafes maintain bulletin boards advertising places/rooms for rent. The local thrice-weekly magazine La Pulce ("The Flea"--as in flea market) also advertises cheap digs. But you'll need the help of a friendly Italian to work through the ads.
Florence and Abroad is an excellent real
estate agency that works with students, teachers and other visitors. Email:
fa@florenceandabroad.com; Telephone: 39.055.4870044; fax 39.055-490-143. BEFORE YOU GO. Check out some travel books & web sites before you go. My favorite
travel books are: Eyewitness (for excellent diagrams), Blue Guides (for unparalleled
information), Insight (for great vignettes on everyday life), and Michelin green guides
(concise and easy to carry). Frommer's, Foders, Lonely Planet, Let's Go and other
travel books also have great information. Grab a couple that meet your needs and style.
(See also BOOKS and INTERNET, below). I would also recommend you ask your travel agent for an
up-to-date copy of the Weissmann Travel Report on Florence. Get the "City Profile"--it's
loaded with information about banking, medical services, business services and tons of
other information in addition to the usual tourist-type stuff. BOOKS. These were useful or entertaining:
2. BE SURE to get your passport stamped when you enter
the country! ASK if they don't do it automatically--it makes things easier at the Questura.
In a more literary vein, the list is slightly longer:
- Desiring Italy, ed. By Susan Cahill (ISBN 0-449-91080-6) and Italy in Mind, ed. By Alice Leccese Powers (ISBN 0-679-77023-2) offer a variety of short stories, novel excerpts, poems, letters, journal entries, etc., from writers such as E. M. Forester, Ernest Hemingway, D. L. Lawrence, Edith Wharton, and many others. The excerpts are fascinating in themselves and often lead to the original works. - D. H. Lawrence and Italy (ISBN 0-14-118030-7). The title says it all. This is literature, not a travel book. Nonetheless, the descriptions and commentaries are both fascinating and evocative, albeit of a different era. - Italian Neighbors, or A Lapsed Anglo-Saxon in Verona, by Tim Parks (ISBN 0-449-90818-6). Probably the most humorous--and in some ways the most insightful--of them all. Just one brief quote: "A test of the extent of your Italianization is whether you still grind your teeth when you hear that something is closed." - Within Tuscany, by Matthew Spender (ISBN 0-14-017838-4). Beautiful stories and experiences by a British artist who went to Siena "on a whim... for not more than a year or two" and never left. - The Agony and The Ecstasy, by Irving Stone (paperback ISBN 0-451-17135-7). Even if one is not into art history, this great biographical novel is an excellent portrayal of one of the most creative and pivotal times in "modern" history. - The City of Florence, by R. W. B. Lewis (ISBN 0-8050-4630-5). Just an absolutely marvelous memoir of a sabbatical in Florence by one who knows the present city and its history intimately. The old and the new are affectionately and interestingly woven together. - And, last but not least, Frances Mayes' books Under the Tuscan Sun (ISBN 0-7679-0038-3) and Bella Tuscany (ISBN 0-7676-0283-1). She (or the publisher) omitted many of the difficulties of dealing with everyday Italian life to make it sound much more bucolic than it really is! But the writing is marvelous, the recipes divine, the encapsulations of daily life enchanting. Take these two books with a grain or two of salt. Life ain't quite this grand unless you, too, have a "sacco di soldi" (sack of money)--all of which was probably recouped from the sale of the books, calendars, etc. Frances and her husband Frank published a third book in 2000, In Tuscany (ISBN 0-7679-0535-0), which really puts it all together very nicely: Great photographs; wonderful recipes; and beautiful, descriptive vignettes of life in Tuscany.BOOK STORES
- After Dark, Via Ginori 47r, tel. 055.294.203. Large selection of English- language books, magazines, newspapers. - BM American/British Bookstore, Borgo Ognissanti, 4r, tel. 055.29.45.75, fax 055.294.575, e-mail bmbooks@dada.it. Another small store bursting with English-language books. - Edisons, Piazza della Repubblica. Recently renovated and greatly expanded to 4 floors, counting the basement. There's a small cyber cafe (9 PCs) in the basement, a beverage bar on the second level, plenty of chairs and tables for reading, lounging, etc. Tourist-type books are on the ground floor, English-language stuff is presently on the top floor. - Paperback Exchange, Via Fiesolana, 31r, tel. 055.2478154, fax 055.247.8856, e-mail papex@papex.it. Maurizo and Emily (American) have a fabulous little store with a wide selection of English-language titles and a great bulletin board that is used by those looking for apartments, language lessons, odd jobs, etc. As the name implies, the store offers an exchange program for used books.CYBER CAFES. There are many, all over Firenze. The one I used, Internet Train has lots of locations including: Via Guelfa 54-56/r (tel. 055.264.5146); via dell'Oriuolo 25/r (tel. 055.263.8968); Borgo San Jacobo 30/r (tel. 055.265.7935), near the Ponte Vecchio; and via dei Benci 36/r (tel. 055.2638555), near Santa Croce. Good prices (as a teacher, I asked for--and got--the student rate.) I kept money on account at several locations so I could walk in and check email just about anywhere! The Via dei Benci location ("Your Virtual Office@Florence") is probably the most comprehensive in Firenze. It features all the usual computer/Internet services, plus fax, P. O. box rental, Western Union money transfers, packing materials for shipping, Swiss Post, UPS service, and much more. They even have vending machines and a snack area and--holy of holies--a modern, decent bathroom. Email: info@fionline.it.
A valuable by-product of the cyber cafes is that they are heavily-used by students, especially Americans. Although they sometimes get a bit congested and noisy, it's a good way to make contacts.
Some other cyber cafes: - CyberOffice, via San Gallo 4r, tel. 055.21.1103, http://www.gherifers.com. - Netgate, via S. Egidio, 10r, tel. 055.2347.967. Also multiple locations throughout the city. http://www.thenetgate.it. - Virtual Office, Via Ginori, 59rNote that there are several keyboard configuations. Americans typically use one that has a shift key on both sides; European keyboards normally have a shift key only on the right. It takes some getting used to. But many of the cafes--because of the numbers of American students--have converted to the American keyboard.
If you are not literate in Italian, this List of Internet Explorer words & phrases may be helpful. DRIVING. Don't drive unless you have to or are extremely adventurous. While not as bad as many
other places (Cairo, for example), Italian in-city driving is definitely more than a spectator sport.
Just like their hotel rooms and coffee cups, everything is smaller: The cars, the streets, the
sidewalks and the available braking distance! But not the speed. That's the challenge. Or one
of them. The small motor scooters (motorini) swarm all over the place: Right, left, front and
back of the cars. Street names change, parking places are impossible to find, garages are
outrageously expensive. If you do drive, be decisive and committed. When you make a move,
DO IT, don't hesitate, don't stop and don't have second thoughts. Italian driving is based on the
little-discussed principle of physics that no two objects can occupy the same space at the same
time. No one will politely invite you to join the melee, you'll have to force your way in,
generally with scant maneuvering room. Just go with it! And remember that insurance is mandatory when renting a car in Italy!! On the other hand, a car is indispensable for
getting out into the countryside--which is a fantastic part of being in Italy. Just be careful and
enjoy the magic of the moment! Also note:
FOOD AND RESTURANTS; In my humble opinion, Florentine cuisine definitely has its limitations, grounded as it is in peasant food: beans, pastas and odd cuts of meat such as tripe, hearts, lungs, etc. The single signature dish of the city, Bistecca Fiorentino ("Florentine beefsteak"--essentially a T-bone with herbs) is prepared only one way, "The way we do it is best"!! Pasta is fine, but it can get old quickly day in and day out. Choices are definitely limited. Here are some options with some observations:
- Ramraj, Via Ghibellina, 61r, tel. 055.240.999. Indian takeaway with a small seating area for on-site dining. Helpful staff, Indian beer. Economical, good selection, something different when you are in pasta overload. - Cafe Caracol, Via dei Ginori, 10r, near the San Lorenzo Market, tel. 055.211.427. As far as I know THE only Mexican restaurant in town. Great Happy Hour bar, lots of locals and American students. To be honest, the food is not as good as it could be, but when you are the only game in town..... - I 5 Tavoli ("The 5 Tables") at Via dei Sole 26/r, tel. 055.294.438) does have a selection of Mexican-like dishes. Unfortunately, they are an Italian cook's interpretation of what the dishes should be like. Not that the food's bad; just different from what you'd expect. - Caffe Megara, Via della Spada, 15/r, tel. 055.211.837. Nice interior, breakfast pastries, decent sandwiches, salads, cheesecake, etc. Clean bathrooms, international newspapers and magazines, public phone. Decent place to go after a movie or just to relax. - Garga, Via dei Moro 48r, tel. 055.239.8808. As wild and crazy a place as you'll find anywhere. Fantastic, Dali-esque artwork on the walls, great food (Giuliano, a native of Florence, runs the entrees and Sharon, his Canadian wife, does a cheesecake to die for). Be warned: this is one for special occasions--£££! - Baldovino, Via S. Giuseppe, 22r, tel. 055-241.773, near Santa Croce. Italian cuisine with flair. As a Domino's aficionado, I believe this place has the best pizzas in town! Not the usual thin, crispy local concoctions, but real Neopolitan pizza. A thicker crust with a little heft and substance. Very nice trattoria with good selection of pizzas, pastas, veggies, English-language menu. Nice wine bar (Enoteca) across the street at #19r. Reservations suggested in the evening, but the prices are comparable to places not half as good. - Yellow Bar, Via del Proconsolo, 39r, te. 055.211.766. Pizzas, pastas and much more in a bright, airy, friendly atmosphere. Photos of Elvis and Marilyn adorn the restroom doors. - Acqua Al 2, Via della Vigna Vecchia 40r, tel. 055.284.170. Crowded but friendly. Great pasta sampler and salad sampler plates. - Borgo Antico, Piazza Santo Spirito, 6r, 055.210.437. Unusally good pizzas, pastas, great salads, English menu, friendly staff. - Fiaschetteria Nuvoli, Piazza dell'Olio, 15, tel. 055.239.6616. This is a quaint bit of culinary heaven tucked in the middle of Frenzy. Don't be deceived by the small standing-room-only entrance. At the end of the counter, the mirror (generously decorated with photos and newspaper clippings) hides stairs to the basement serving rooms. Check with the bar-master to insure seating is available, then head downstairs. In the hallway between the two rooms, there's a glass cabinet--get your own glasses, silverware and placemats there! The food is simple & direct. The pasta dishes are excellent, as are the fried vegetables. Just a few desserts and no coffee, but the fantastic atmosphere of knick-knacks, shelves of wine bottles and the sharing of good food make this a great spot. I was surprised how many Fiorentinos are not aware of its existence.GROCERIES. Florence is loaded with specialty food shops, but there are relatively few all purpose "grocery stores." If there's a Yellow Pages ("Pagine Gialle") handy, look under Alimentari and Supermercati for locations your area. Here are some good choices:
- Conad has several locations in the middle of town. One is on Via Luigi Almamanni, in the Santa Maria Novello train station. In the main lobby (facing the train tracks), go left down the stairs, then right. A second location "La Margherita" is at Via dei Servi 56/r. Both of these are small but fairly comprehensive. - Standa, Via Pietrapiana 42-44. Probably the largest in the central area. Narrow but deep store with a wide selection. - Supermercati, Via Degli Alfani 52r. - Esselunga has a number of locations, check the Pagine Gialle or ask someone familiar with Florence if there is a store nearby. NOTE: If buying produce at these stores, don't forget to don a disposable plastic glove first! Then, select the fruit, bag it, weigh it, punch the correct little picture & slap on the price tag! At produce stands/stores with a proprietor ALWAYS ask before you start picking things up!Sadly, you may need to take a bus from the store to your residence, limit your purchases, or lug a lot of stuff a long way. Just another day in "Frenzy"....
DO go to the Central Market at San Lorenzo. Ground floor for breads, meats, fish, cheeses, pesto, olive oil and many other wonderful things. Fresh pastas, milk, even a small grocery store with frozen food, Bisquick, Betty Crocker cake mixes, etc.! Upstairs, fresh fruits and vegetables. While in the main building, be sure to stop by Perini's a wonderful source of great Italian take out goodies.
The streets around the central market are filled with stalls selling leather goods, second hand clothes, t-shirts, etc. Also, several Chinese food stores with lots of goodies, and one or two African stores, some with food.
American products are licensed for manufacture and sale in Europe. They usually are in smaller packages with higher prices. And they are not the same! For example, Kelloggs Special K there is not the same as Kelloggs Special K here. Larger, thicker flakes; different taste. It's not uncommon for manufacturers around the world to adjust product formulations based on local conditions, availability of materials, local tastes, etc. Just so you know.
INTERNET RESOURCES. In Italy On Line is probably the best and most comprehensive site about Italy; Aaron Craig's humorous narrative "Moving to Italy" is quite instructive*. At one time, Travelocity had extensive Business information (time-management, etiquette, entertaining, communications, etc.) under its Destinations Guide to Italy. It has since been removed but is provided here for your information and use. Another great site is the Hotel Pendini Web Page . It has tons of information, as does Firenze Net, which is not quite as comprehensive or, in my opinion, user-friendly. See my list of Italy web sites for a variety of useful links.
*Some of the material is outdated. Domino's is not in Florence, and I'm not sure they ever were. Haagen Dazs lasted only about a year; people don't go to Italy to eat ice cream created in the Bronx! And Starbuck's keeps adjusting the date it will enter the Italian market, even though its espresso machines are made in Florence.
Italy is much more than the Roman Empire and Renaissance art. For a different perspective, and perhaps an understanding as to why some things (especially political) are the way they are today Italian Life Under Fascism provides a thoughtful, stimulating look at a difficult time in Italian history.
ITALIAN LANGUAGE & CULTURE. Everyone told me not worry about learning the language-- "you'll pick it up in six months"! FAR FROM TRUE, although many people do have a natural affinity for languages and total-immersion definitely helps. So many Italians speak varying forms of English and there are so many English-speaking people in Florence that it becomes easy not to make the effort to learn Italian. My recommendation for good, economical lessons is the Centro Internazionale Studenti la Pira, Via de Pescioni 3, right next to the Amadeus pub/café. The school is actually run by the Catholic Archdiocese and offers lessons almost at cost. I paid £25,000 per hour for private lessons, which is dirt cheap. Ask for Christina. She's a sweetheart, very patient and helpful. Eduardo is also very friendly and good.
- Centro Studi Filippo Brunelleschi, Piazza Indipendenza 30, Tel & fax (+39) 055.476.618, email brunelleschi@dada.it. Offers "survival courses" on Italy, Permessos (di Soggiorno and di Lavoro), getting through the paperwork, etc. An excellent resource for those planning a long-term stay in Italy.